A month in Vietnam

There's no denying that South East Asia is a different world. My 30 hour flight from Vancouver gave me plenty of time to think about what could go wrong: Would I be safe? Would I be able to speak with the locals? Would I finally cure my pickiness towards foreign food?

It turns out that it's incredibly easy to visit Vietnam as a foreigner. Everyone speaks English; the transportation systems are excellent, and the locals are incredibly friendly.

The geography of the country means that most people start from Ho Chi Minh City (in the South) or Hanoi (in the North) and make the trek from one to the other. It's fairly common to bump into people you met days or even weeks later, only to find out you've both been traveling in parallel.

Ho Chi Minh City is the most modern of all the cities in Vietnam, which helps with the culture shock. The city is unmistakably foreign, but the skyscrapers and luxury stores add a touch of familiarity. It's the energy of the place that made me feel the most at home - it felt unmistakably like New York at times.

One would be forgiven for thinking that the Vietnamese might dislike Americans, but the wounds of war have healed remarkably quickly and most find themselves welcomed throughout the country. Nevertheless, the scars are still present; bullet holes on monuments, photos of the devastation, and the disfigured victims of Agent Orange who live impoverished lives. I spent my first day wandering around the War Remnants Museum, and the photos I saw still haunt me.

For a slightly more pleasant experience of the war, travel two hours north of Saigon to the Củ Chi Tunnels - an immense underground network that the Viet Kong lived and fought out of for years. You can even explore a 200 meter long stretch of tunnels (widened for foreigners), but I was ready to leave after just 2 minutes underground. Life in those conditions - with bombs dropping around you and insects crawling everywhere - must have been excruciating.

Most first time visitors are taken aback by one thing - the traffic. It's everywhere - on the streets, sidewalks, and even in the occasional mall. Scooters are the dominant form of transportation in this city, and they are essential tools for the locals. You won't believe what you can fit on the seats of a scooter with a little craftiness, and it's not uncommon to see families of four threading their way through traffic.

Crossing the street for the first time in Vietnam is a memorable experience. The key is to walk in a slow and steady line, and ignore the swarm of scooters buzzing inches away from you. It's only when you stop that you're in trouble, as the drivers suddenly have no idea where you will be next. This is one of those few things that are easier to do when you are drunk.

Oddly enough, the madness of the traffic is also part of the charm of these cities. I found myself missing my games of frogger when the streets emptied out around the Chinese New Year.

Speaking of which, experiencing Tet - the Chinese New Year - is something that everyone should try at some point in their lives. These annual celebrations are not trivial things; the entire country shuts down for two weeks, and transportation becomes all but impossible while everyone makes their way to their natal villages. I was advised to hunker down in one of the bigger cities, where I would have a chance of finding an open restaurant or hostel. I'm glad I did, as it gave me a chance to experience one of the wildest fireworks celebrations of my life.

Tet also highlights another feature of the Vietnamese people - their incredible kindness. I was invited to join a family as they sat down for lunch, and I was treated to the most incredible vegetarian meal of my life. Through my trip, I heard several stories of travelers who were left stranded during the celebrations, only to find food and shelter from villagers they had never met.

I should take a minute to mention the incredible coffee shop scene in Ho Chi Minh. There are countless independent coffee shops scattered throughout the city, and the competition has spawned some stunning work environments. The coffee is incredible (strong and very sweet), the wifi is fast and plentiful, and I never felt pressured to leave or to constantly buy more (although I still found myself doing so).

It's hard to say how much time you should budget to exploring Ho Chi Minh City. Most people are happy to leave after three or four days, but I found myself eager to stay well beyond the 8 days I had allocated myself. Nevertheless, there's always a time to move on, and so I soon found myself outside of the city and on to the village town of Da Lat.